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The wave frequency is the time it takes for two subsequent wave crests to pass a location.

A) True
B) False

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Waves moving against a current will


A) increase their height.
B) decrease their speed.
C) shorten their wavelength.
D) All of these are correct.
E) None of these are correct.

F) A) and C)
G) A) and E)

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When water depth is between L/2 and L/20, the wave speed is constant.

A) True
B) False

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Wind waves in the open sea have wavelengths and speeds that are defined by the wave period.

A) True
B) False

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Swell is more regular than waves in the wind-generated area because


A) waves have been sorted by dispersion.
B) some small waves have been damped out by friction.
C) packets of swell are all at the same depth at the same time.
D) waves have been sorted by dispersion and some small waves have been damped out by friction.
E) waves have been sorted by dispersion, some small waves have been damped out by friction, and packets of swell are all at the same depth at the same time.

F) A) and E)
G) A) and D)

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Water particles in shallow-water waves move in ________ orbits.

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The average energy of a wave is related to the square of its


A) height.
B) wave length.
C) period.
D) speed.
E) All of these are correct.

F) A) and B)
G) A) and D)

Correct Answer

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Because of dispersion the distribution of waves from a single storm changes with time and distance from the storm center.

A) True
B) False

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Waves that form beneath the surface on the pycnocline are called ________ waves.

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Typical wavelength of a tsunami is


A) 1 to 2m.
B) 10 to 20m.
C) 100 to 200m.
D) 100 to 200km.
E) 1000 to 2000km.

F) A) and B)
G) C) and E)

Correct Answer

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Internal waves are faster and have shorter periods than most wind waves.

A) True
B) False

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The average energy of a wave is determined by the wave's


A) speed.
B) length.
C) period.
D) All of these are correct.
E) None of these are correct.

F) C) and D)
G) B) and E)

Correct Answer

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Wave refraction results in


A) wave energy concentrating in bays.
B) wave energy decreasing in bays.
C) wave energy focusing on headlands.
D) wave energy concentrating in bays and wave energy focusing on headlands.
E) wave energy decreasing in bays and wave energy focusing on headlands.

F) A) and D)
G) A) and C)

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Water transported shoreward in the surf zone is returned seaward by


A) shallow water waves.
B) reflected waves.
C) refracted waves.
D) rip currents.
E) internal waves.

F) A) and D)
G) B) and D)

Correct Answer

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The restoring force of a capillary wave is gravity.

A) True
B) False

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Internal waves are always standing waves.

A) True
B) False

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The speed of a shallow water wave changes with depth, but the length of a wave does not change.

A) True
B) False

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There is no vertical motion at the antinode of a standing wave.

A) True
B) False

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Two different wave groups with the same height travel together in the same direction. The wavelength of one group is twice as long as the wavelength of the other group. A combined wave of extra height will be produced


A) every wave.
B) every other wave.
C) every third wave.
D) every fifth wave.
E) every seventh wave.

F) B) and C)
G) A) and E)

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There are three antinodes in a double node standing wave.

A) True
B) False

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